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I am confident I am not alone in classifying a trip to Iceland as a bucket list item. In addition to unmatched geography, the northern lights have long been a draw. I learned firsthand spending July 4 in Fairbanks Alaska doesn’t mean you will see the northern lights. After all, Fairbanks has only about 15 minutes of darkness that time of year.
My wife’s cousin Lisa asked me via email what I thought about (goaheadtours.com/guided-tours/iceland-reykjavik-the-northern-lights). Of course, my answer was “sounds interesting”. After learning she and her sister registered for the trip, I replied “I’m in”. This would be my second Go Ahead Tour. Unlike the previous Go Ahead tour (three countries and more cities), this tour included part of a small country (in the dead of winter). I realized the tour’s itinerary meant nearly every night would be in the same hotel. That alone made the day trips shown in the image below worth the long days.
Similar to my Eastern Europe tour, I began with research. The first order of business was to learn the best way to take pictures of the northern lights. I read doing so with a mobile phone wasn’t possible. Armed with research, a digital SLR, two lenses and a good tripod, I felt ready. I then decided it would be helpful to know more about Iceland’s weather in late February. Investigation revealed the temperatures stay a few degrees above or below freezing. That same research informed me precipitation (all types) should be expected every day.
Follow my adventures by viewing the daily blogs below.
2/21/2020 – Iceland Air non-stop transatlantic without food!
Lisa and I chose (wisely) to arrive a day before the tour officially started. In addition to getting a head start on adjusting to GMT (from EST), we didn’t endure sleep deprivation during the Tour Director’s brief tour of Reykjavik or his comments at the lunch.
The subject is not an error. To clarify, I chose to fly in coach anticipating services common for transatlantic flights would be available on my flight. Alas, that was not the case. The image below represents the scene at the duty-free shop as our flight came through as ravenous passengers grabbed the first edible thing they saw.
Fortunately, Lisa and I provisioned before the flight at Boston Logan’s Air France lounge (via my Priority Pass membership). I couldn’t think of a more pleasant way to consume several hours.
More fortunately, we were entertained a few hours watching the northern lights during the flight. They started about two hours into the flight and dropped off an hour before landing. A great way to start the Reykjavik and northern lights tour.
MTF – more to follow for the net lingo challenged.
2-22-2020 – NO ROOM AT THE INN
We cleared immigration and customs by around 7 AM. The next chapter in our journey involved two Flybus coaches to get us from Keflavík to the Hotel Center Midgardur. Lisa was assured at least a day room would be available if ours were not for early check-in. Of course, that meant nothing was available at 8:00 AM and might not until standard check-in at 3:00 PM.
With a morning nap no longer an option, we diverted to the hotel restaurant for a leisurely breakfast. Fortified (somewhat) with multiple cups of coffee we plotted our next steps.
Reykjavik in February of course meant several hours of stomping around the inner city in sub-freezing temperatures. The view of Reykjavik harbor beyond the Sun Voyager was inspiring.
We continued down the waterfront to Harpa, the Reykjavík Concert Hall and Conference Centre. Opened in May 2011, Harpa hosts numerous performing events (of which I didn’t have an opportunity to attend – perhaps next time). The name Harpa has more than one meaning. It is an old Icelandic word that refers to a time of year and is in fact a month in the old Nordic calendar. The first day of that month is celebrated as the first day of summer and marks the beginning of a brighter time where nature comes to live and the colors of the environment sharpen. Of course, Harpa also refers to the instrument.
The nearby Kolaportio Flea Market tempted us with a variety of odds and ends. The stench of hakarl (fermented shark) drove us from the food section.
We trundled up to the Pond to view the faceless bureaucrat and the feeding of hundreds of waterfowl. You might remember them from the duty free shop.
Turning away from the Pond we made our way up Skolavorbustiger to Hallgrimskirkja church. Known in English as the “Church of Iceland”, Hallgrimskirkja is Reykjavík’s main landmark. Its tower can be seen from almost everywhere in the city. The church is modeled on the Svartifoss Waterfall and the surrounding basalt rock in the south of the country.
By now our feet were cold and tired. The rest of us was as well. Our rooms were finally available allowing for a much needed rest.
Having scouted Kol restaurant earlier, we enjoyed a fabulous dinner. Like many things in Iceland, Kol was a bit pricey. Nevertheless, I recommend Kol for those whose journey lands them in Reykjavik.
February 23, 2020 – Crampons are good
Before explaining the subject, a quick geology lesson. I transitioned to the european plate at Thingvellir. Iceland expands about an inch a year as the european and north american tetonic plates move apart. I just knew it as a snowy and windy rift valley. Walking on uneven surfaces through 6″ of fresh snow necessitated crampons provided by the tour. I observed multiple involuntary falls (none from our group).
This location is known for the Alþing (Althing), the site of Iceland’s parliament from the 10th to 18th centuries. This being our first all-day drive, the tour guide introduced us to Iceland’s restroom rating scale. The loo at Thingvellir National Park ranked three stars (per Tristi “Yayeeeeeee”). Working plumbing is always a plus in my book
The tour included at least one meal each day. Today’s dining feature was Fridheimar Farm. This greenhouse grows fresh produce (mostly tomatoes) courtesy of heat from geothermal energy. I enjoyed a steaming bowl of tomato soup with fresh baked bread. Because Cathy wasn’t with me, I found a bouquet she might appreciate.
Gullfoss (Golden Waterfall) covered in ice (one of my picture objectives) is most impressive. Still, a bit of sun would be nice.
Geysir wasn’t as stinky as Yellowstone. Unfortunately, Geysir has fewer geothermal features and all were obscured by heavy snowfall.
Dinner was an outstanding haddock at Harry’s.
We shall see what the next day’s weather brings.
February 24, 2020 – What the Hekla
We ventured down to the south coast of Iceland for more snow experiences (no kidding) most of the AM continued yesterday’s heavy snowfall. About the time we neared Hekla (Hell) per some medieval writers, I began to see glimpses of the sun. Not that I mind winter precipitation, I get a bit grumpy when the cloud cover obscures the northern lights (my key reason for being here).
I got to observe Vik’s sneaker waves in action. The black sand (gravel really) beach is a 
popular destination. My research found the following “At Reynisfjara black sand beach in Vik, keep a very safe distance from the water. The waves here are known to be really dangerous and can unexpectedly swipe you off your feet and pull you into the sea.” Unfortunately, not all visitors listen to their guides or conduct much research about wave hazards. Two ladies in another tour managed to get pretty wet. Thankfully, they weren’t swept into the surf.
The tour stitched together a number of good destinations. My chief complaint was not being able to stop on a whim for a picture. Skógafoss, one of Iceland’s many waterfalls, offered a 450+ climb up icy steps. The view from the top per the guide wasn’t great. The freezing mist at the bottom made me appreciate my hand warmers and wish I wore my long johns.
Even skipping the glacier walk due to weather (see comment above about the snow), we didn’t get back until 6:30. Poor conditions prevented the evening boat tour of the northern lights. Perhaps tomorrow will be better.
sé þig seinna (per Google, that is see you later).
February 25, 2020 – Encore and something new
After yesterday’s long day, today’s adventure started a bit later (bus departure at 1:00 PM). The delay allowed a return to Perlan (you might need to select the English site). We wanted to experience more than a very windy observation deck. In addition to an outstanding natural history museum, we visited the planetarium for a presentation on the Aurora Borealis. I very much enjoyed the ice cave.
Not surprisingly to those who know me, I noticed some things about Iceland. The first day (and has continued since) I noted the lack of sirens. Similarly, I’ve heard no car horns. I heard lots of studded tires, graupel and wind. Guess that’s the price of admission to 66 north.
Another notable feature is water. Icelanders (if that’s a word) cite their clean water. Wherever you might be, you can count on good water at no charge. The air is so dry, I’ve refilled my container multiple times each day.
The something new experience was a trip to the Blue Lagoon. Iceland has dozens of thermal pools, many in the Reykjavik area. The Blue Lagoon is conveniently adjacent to the airport. Had I needed to pay extra, I might not have gone. That would have been my loss. It’s strange standing in 95 degree water with air temperatures in the 20’s.
Today was notable as one of the tour guests celebrated a birthday. The tour director led the happy birthday song. The Puerto Rican contingent (nearly a third of the group) followed with one in Spanish and the tour director ended with the Icelandic version. Best of all the dinner included birthday cake.
Tonight was our third (and perhaps final) attempt for the northern lights. We left the hotel at 9 PM and weren’t due back until after midnight. I got into my room at 1:00 AM (with no northern lights seen).
We check out tomorrow for West Iceland.
February 26, 2020 – A Blustery Day
Snow in a big way! While possibly not the 8-12 inches predicted, near white out conditions remind me of lake effect snow. In all respects the locals take the varied weather in stride. Every place I’ve visited has pleasant and informative staff. Not exactly what might be experienced in some US locales.
Today’s itinerary includes four destinations. Ironically, the ice cave up the glacier may be least impacted. The benefits of being under the surface and reaching it via a modified snow truck.
Alas, zero visibility cancelled today’s glacier tour. They rescheduled us for tomorrow morning. The prediction for another 6″ of overnight snow puts that in question.
On the positive side, we checked into the very nice Hotel Husafell four hours sooner planned. I didn’t plan to indulge in the outdoor pool with it’s 50 meter walk outside to the changing room. Rather, I enjoyed a pint once the bar opened. There’s something to be said watching snow squalls bluster down the mountain while comfortably ensconced inside with a lager. One of the hardy souls who returned from the pool said it took an act of bravery to step from the pool on to the snow and ice.
Learned after dinner the rescheduled glacier tour is cancelled. The tour director advised of alternative destinations. One of those is our final opportunity to view the northern lights. Hopefully the sky will be clear enough.
Ciao,
February 27, 2020 – Northern Lights at last!
I started the day at Hotel Husafell in Husafell (West Iceland). Though toasty under the bed’s duvet, I listened to the winds blow last night. They shook the single story hotel! This is the closest I think I’ve been in a blizzard. While Virginia sometimes gets 10+ inches of snow in a storm, wind speed of 35 meters per second only happens in tropical storms. With the wind chill, it felt about 12 Fahrenheit.
We next ventured to Reykholt, a historic village that was home to medieval writer and chieftain Snorri Sturluson. Apparently some of this fellow’s writing inspired Tolkien.
Because the glacier tour was cancelled, we returned to Perlan (which included lunch and full access to the museum). Having been there two days earlier, I skipped most of the exhibits. Another compensating action by Go Ahead was a visit to Flyover Iceland. I generally avoid overt tourist traps. Had I not gone, I would have missed a well-executed virtual flying exhibit. Iceland’s scenery is second to none. Flyover Iceland is something I plan to visit again.
Of course, the highlight of the (really long) day was our fourth attempt to see the northern lights. For the first time in over a week, I saw stars in the sky. The clear(er) skies allowed images such as what I attached ). You’ll have to wait until I build the trip album to see images from my SLR camera. I was most impressed my phone captured this image.
Later,
February 28, 2020 – Last Day in Reykjavik (for this trip)
Waking up early after a late night seems fitting for my final day in Reykjavik. Once again it was snowing (as forecast). I struck out for a final walk about old Reykjavik. Eventually the skies cleared (for a little while as shown below).
Fortunately the snow didn’t reach the intensity as two days earlier when “the” highway connecting Reykjavik to points southeast was closed for nearly a day. After a leisurely bus ride to Keflavík for me to enjoy the TSA’s extra special treatment. In addition to multiple security checks, I was escorted to a room in which pretty much every surface was evaluated one way or another. I found the swabbing of inside of the top of my socks particularly amusing. No doubt the bad guys used that location in the past. We enjoyed a pre-flight snack in the departure lounge before boarding. Alas, our day-time departure (in the snow) meant we wouldn’t be able to see the Northern Lights one last time on this trip.
Homeward bound today. Looking forward to sleeping in my own bed tomorrow (actually Sunday as I land in Boston after the last Jet Blue flight to Richmond leaves – my experience in the Logan Embassy Suites is worthy of its own blog post)